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THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING.
Stock being the basis of all meat soups, and, also, of all the primary sauces, it is necessary to the success of these culinary operations, to know the most full and affordable technique of drawing out, from a particular quantity of meat, the very best possible stock or broth. The theory and philosophy of this procedure we will, for that reason, discuss, and after that continue to show the useful course to be adopted.
As all meat is primarily composed of fibres, fat, gelatine, osmazome, and albumen, it is requisite to know that the fibers are inseparable, constituting nearly all that stays of the meat after it has undergone a long boiling. Fat is liquefied by boiling; but as it is contained in cells covered by an extremely fine membrane, which never ever dissolves, a portion of it always follows the fibres. The other portion increases to the surface of the stock, and is that which has left from the cells which were not entire, or which have burst by boiling. Gelatine is soluble: it is the basis and the nutritious portion of the stock. When there is an abundance of it, it triggers the stock, when cold, to end up being a jelly. Osmazome is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the meat which gives flavour and fragrance to the stock. The flesh of old animals contains more osmazome than that of young ones. Brown meats consist of more than white, and the previous make the stock more sweet-smelling. By roasting meat, the osmazome appears to get greater homes; so, by putting the remains of roast meats into your stock-pot, you get a much better flavour.
Albumen is of the nature of the white of eggs; it can be dissolved in cold or tepid water, however coagulates when it is put into water not at the boiling-point. From this home in albumen, it is apparent that if the meat is put into the stock-pot when the water boils, or after this is made to boil up quickly, the albumen, in both cases, hardens. In the first it rises to the surface, in the second it stays in the meat, but in both it prevents the gelatine and osmazome from dissolving; and thus a thin and unsavory stock will be acquired. It ought to be understood, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in the meat, always happens, more or less, according to the size of the piece, as the parts farthest from the surface always obtain that degree of heat which congeals it prior to totally liquefying it.
Bones ought constantly to form a part of the stock-pot. They are made up of an earthy compound, to which they owe their solidity, of gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them consist of as much gelatine as one pound of meat; however in them, this is so incased in the earthy drug, that boiling water can dissolve just the surface area of entire bones. By breaking them, however, you can liquefy more, since you multiply their surfaces; and by decreasing them to powder or paste, you can liquefy them entirely; but you have to not grind them dry. Gelatine types the basis of stock; but this, though very nourishing, is totally without taste; and making the stock savoury, it needs to contain osmazome. Of this, bones do not include a particle; which is the reason why stock made totally of them, is not liked; however when you add meat to the broken or pulverized bones, the osmazome included in it makes the stock adequately mouth-watering.
In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensed hints and instructions need to be attended to in the economy of soup-making:
Beef makes the finest stock. Veal stock has less colour and taste; whilst mutton often gives it a tallowy odor, far from acceptable, unless the meat has actually been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls include very little to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, when they are old, add the most flavour to it; and a rabbit or partridge is also a terrific enhancement. From the freshest meat the best stock is acquired.
If the meat be boiled entirely to make stock, it should be cut up into the tiniest possible pieces; but, typically speaking, if it is wanted to have excellent stock and a piece of mouth-watering meat as well, it is needed to put a rather huge piece into the stock-pot, say adequate for 2 or three days, during which time the stock will keep well in all weathers. Pick the best meat, and have it cut as thick as possible; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look well, and will be soon ruined by the boiling.
Never wash meat, as it denies its surface area of all its juices; separate it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its shape might be preserved, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each pound of meat, let there be one pint of water; press it down with the hand, to allow the air, which it consists of, to get away, and which typically raises it to the top of the water.
Put the stock-pot on a gentle fire, so that it may heat up slowly. The albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate; and as it is in this state lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface; bringing with it all its impurities. It is this makings the residue. The rising of the solidified albumen has the exact same result in clarifying stock as the white of eggs; and, as a rule, it might be stated that the more scum there is, the clearer will be the stock. Constantly make sure that the fire is very regular.
Get rid of the residue when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil, because then one part of the residue will be liquefied, and the other go to the bottom of the pot; thus rendering it extremely tough to acquire a clear broth. If the fire is regular, it will not be needed to include cold water in order to make the residue rise; but if the fire is too large initially, it will then be necessary to do so.
When the stock is well skimmed, and starts to boil, put in salt and vegetables, which might be 2 or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, a bunch of leeks and celery looped. You can include, according to taste, a piece of cabbage, 2 or 3 cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. The latter offers a very reasonable flavour to the stock. If fried onion be added, it ought, according to the advice of a popular French chef, to be tied in a little bag: without this precaution, the colour of the stock is accountable to be clouded.
By this time we will now suppose that you have sliced the bones which were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the roast meat of the day previously. Keep in mind, as was prior to pointed out, that the more these are busted, the more gelatine you will have. The best method to break them up is to pound them about in an iron mortar, including, from time to time, a little water, to prevent them getting heated. In their busted state tie them up in a bag, and put them in the stock-pot; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trimmings, which can be used for no other function. If, making up the weight, you have purchased a piece of mutton or veal, broil it a little over a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be extremely cautious that it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or burnt.
Add now the vegetables, which, to a certain degree, will stop the boiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up once more, then draw it to the side of the fire, and keep it gently simmering till it is served, maintaining, as prior to stated, your fire always the exact same. Cover the stock-pot well, to avoid evaporation; do not fill it up, even if you take out a little stock, unless the meat is exposed; in which case a little boiling water may be included, however only enough to cover it. After 6 hours' sluggish and mild simmering, the stock is done; and it must not be advanced the fire, longer than is needed, or it will have the tendency to insipidity.
Keep in mind. It is on a great stock, or first excellent broth and sauce, that quality in culinary depends. If the prep work of this basis of the culinary art is intrusted to irresponsible or oblivious individuals, and the stock is not well skimmed, however indifferent outcomes will be acquired. The stock will never be clear; when it is obliged to be clarified, it is degraded both in quality and flavour. In the appropriate management of the stock-pot a tremendous offer of difficulty is conserved, inasmuch as one stock, in a little supper, serves for all purposes. Above all things, the best economy, consistent with excellence, must be practiced, and the rate of everything which goes into the kitchen properly determined. The theory of this part of Household Management might appear trifling; but its practice is substantial, and therefore it needs the very best interest.
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